18 May 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0

Floribunda roses are a cross between the Polyantha Roses and the Hybrid T Roses


They are repeat bloomers they produce clusters of small flowers +/- 6 cm in diameter.

They are grown mainly for a garden display rather than to be used for cut flowers. They are easy to care for and flower

continually , they come in flat and cup shaped blooms.


The method of pruning Floribunda’s is different to from the method used for pruning Hybrid Tea roses. The old wood in the Floribunda is good, as long as it is not diseased. Old wood produces short stems and large clusters of blooms therefore we want lots of short stems from lots of lateral stems of old wood from many old canes. Often floribundas are pruned only to control the size, shape and health of the plants.


If pruned too heavily, growth will decline; if it is too light, the bush will be large and lack vigour. Many floribunda’s, benefit from annual pruning in which three to as many as eight canes remain in a vase-shaped configuration.


Follow the rules:

1) Sterilize tools with Jeyes fluid.


2) Remove / cut away all dead, half dead and diseased canes. Next, take off any suckers or root shoots that are sprouting directly from the root stock below the crown by ripping them downwards to remove all material where the sucker joins the roots. You can take off some old wood but not too much otherwise you will lose vigour and flowers.


3) Cut back the lateral stems about one-fourth to one-third of the current year’s growth.

Taking off more of the growth will produce fewer, but larger, blooms; taking off less will produce more, but smaller, ones. You may cut the centre branch from each cluster of branches, and cut the remaining ones back to 3 or 4 undeveloped growth buds.


You will have to look at the architecture of the Rose it will tell you how each plant needs to be cut. (A good eye and experience makes this part easy)


If you have a hedge of one variety, cut all plants to a uniform height. I have seen professionals using the hedge cutters, just make sure you don’t cut more than one fourth to one third of the current year’s growth. You will be amazed at the good results.


Areas with colder winters will need to cut more due to freeze damage. If you still see some dead or half dead canes make sure you cut them back until you reach healthy white pith.


Apply Efekto Steriseal or wood glue to those cut ends if desired, depending on the climatic conditions I actually prefer to leave it to nature or I apply it only unto the large wounds.


Just make sure your secateurs /pruning equipment is sharp.


Clean up and discard all fallen leaves and cuttings to prevent the spread of fungus or disease and pests.


Spray the roses and the surrounding soil areas with Lime sulphur (check the date on the bottle and make sure it’s fresh).


And that is how we prune Floribunda Roses.


18 May 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0

Hybrid T Roses:


You have to know what you want from your rose bush, therefore you have to first look at the structure of the rose bush, each one is different and the rose will actually tell you how it needs to be pruned.


Hybrid T’s are perpetual and are a cross between the Hybrid and the Old fashion Tea Roses.


The Hybrid T is generally grown for its long stems which are suitable as single cut flowers to bring into the house and put on a vase; they may or may not have a fragrance. The bush can grow from 1 mt up to 2 mt tall and bloom on the new wood.


To get the long stem results they need to be pruned the traditional way.


Start by sterilizing your tools with Jeyes fluid

Then top some of the taller branches +/- 45 to 55cm from the base of the plant up.

This is done to ascertain its architecture so you can see what you are going to do.


Then, follow the basic 3 rules for pruning all roses.

1) Cut out dead, diseased, and broken wood.

2) Cut out canes that cross the middle, the one's that rub against each other as well as the spindly branches; also remove the root shoots coming from below the graft.

With Hybrid T Roses you then look for the outward facing bud eyes, because you want the flowers to stand free from each other so that there is no brushing and damaging of flowers and stems.

Bud eyes are swelling buds where the new growth comes from.

3) Shorten the rest of the canes

You need to look at the bud eyes who face away from the centre of the plant, remember they are the ones you want to keep. You may remove just the branches or the entire stem. For the largest blooms, most gardeners then take off all, but leave the newest, thickest and strongest green stems (anywhere from 3 to 8), keeping stems that contribute to a nice vase shape.


If you don’t wish to prune that severely, just remove enough stems to open up the centre of the plant so light and air can go through. Make all cuts about 5 to 10 mm beyond a bud, preferable an outward pointing one if there is one. If there is no outward pointing bud don’t be alarmed cutting just beyond any other bud eye will also do. Angle the cut at about 45° to shed water away from the bud if the degree is a little different don’t worry it won’t kill the rose bush.


Apply Efekto Steriseal or wood glue to the cut ends if desired, depending on the climatic conditions I actually prefer to leave it to nature or I apply it only unto the large wounds. Just make sure your secateurs /pruning equipment sharp and sterile.


Clean up and discard all fallen leaves and cuttings to prevent the spread of fungus or disease and pests. Spray the roses and the surrounding soil areas with Lime sulphur (check the date on the bottle). And that is how Hybrid T Roses are pruned.

22 Apr 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0

A rose stem will grow and bear flowers actively for a number of years. Unlike a tree, a rose does not increase in size every year; it eventually exhausts itself and dies. Roses that are left un-pruned can become a tangled mess of old and new stems all competing for air and light.


Pruning is essential to the health of the rose. Cutting out dead and diseased wood will encourage the regular development of healthy new shoots or canes and ultimately, the goal of all rose growers, beautiful masses of blooms.


Pruning Roses can be bit daunting and intimidating at first, but it is not all that bad. All you have to do is, follow the basic 3 rules for pruning all roses.


1) Cut out dead, diseased, and broken wood.

2) Cut out the canes / shoots that cross the middle and those that rub against each other.

3) Shorten the rest of the canes / shoots.


Before you begin pruning, you need to determine what type of rose you have and how it blooms, as this will affect both your timing and technique.

  • Repeat bloomers flower on new wood which is the recent thick green growth, these plants naturally shed their old canes every few years.When you buy them new from the Nursery I prefere not to prune them for the first year, some times one can potspone the pruning for two years. Then use the 1/3 cutting back method, where you remove 1/3 of the oldest canes in addition to any dead, diseased or half dead canes. Hybrid T Roses, Grandiflora Roses, Floribunda Roses and Polyantha Roses as well as many Shrub Roses all fall under the catagory of repeat bloomers, which means they keep producing blooms right through the flowering season. Including most of the modern roses fall into this category of repeat blooming as well as Miniature and Climbing Roses.


  • Single bloomers (such as some antique roses and shrub roses) should be pruned after they finish blooming in the late spring or summer.
If you aren’t sure, look for the tag at the base of the main stem – it will give you the name of the Rose variety, and you can easily look up the type. If there isn’t a tag or a lable, hold off on pruning until you’ve observed when the rose blooms and what type of Rose you are dealing with.
22 Apr 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0




Pennisetum Clandestinum (known as Kikuyu lawn grass) as a general host and Stenotaphrum Secundatum, also known as (Buffalo lawn grass).


Some Dematiaceous Hyphomycetes that cause lawn diseases are:

Leaf spot, Rhizome rot and Fading-out, Blight, Crown and root rot, Poa leaf spot, scald, and a host of diseases caused by Drechslera spp (which was formerly called Helminthosporium), also the disease called Fusarium spp, Curvularia spp, Bipolaris and Exserohilum spp. Each disease has its own related pathogens.


Epidemiology and disease cycle

These pathogens are active at all times, the grass blades, roots, lower stems rhizomes and / or stolons may be affected directly by fungus, mycelium bearing conidiophores and conidia. These pathogens survive unfavorable conditions (periods of very hot or cold weather) as conidia (spores) and as dormant mycelium in infected plant tissue and in debris. The fungi can grow saprophytic on dead tissue and produce spores profusely when dry debris is rewetted.


During periods of cool, moist weather the conidia may spread to healthy leaves or leaf sheaths by wind, rain, irrigation water, equipment, or feet of people or animals. When the leaf surfaces are moist and the temperature requirements are met, the conidia germinate quickly and

produce germ tubes that infect the leaves.


Different pathogens become active at different times according to temperatures and growing conditions. Lesions are produced, and additional spore production may occur on the dead and infected tissue in larger lesions.


The disease cycle occurs mainly during spring and autumn, while other pathogens continue the cycle during the warmer weather.


Physiologic changes in the plant heighten susceptibility to the disease when light intensity is low (shading by trees, clouds, etc), when movement of air is impeded, when the mowing height is lower than that recommended for specific turf grass being grown, when turf is fertilized excessively with nitrogen, and when hormonal type fungicides or herbicides have been applied to control other diseases and broad leaf weeds. In addition, large amounts of thatch provide a food source on which the disease can grow and produce spores.



If the lawn is badly affected, remove thatch if it accumulates to depths of more than 2cm. Rake out all dead material and thin lawn to get rid of sponginess. This should be done in early spring. Destroy all diseased plant material, grass cuttings etc.


Water should be applied thoroughly in the morning or at midday to wet the soil deeply but as infrequently as possible without causing stress. Avoid frequent short irrigations, especially in the latter part of the day or evening. During winter period do not water, only water when really needed.


Mow the grass as high as possible on lawns and commercial turf grasses; the minimum height should be 5 to 6cm to enable the grass to absorb day light (photosynthesis).


Avoid the over use of systemically trans located fungicides and herbicides for control of other diseases and broad leaf weeds these chemicals may accentuate the disease caused by Drechslera spp, Curvularia spp, Fusarium spp, Bipolaris and Exserohilum spp.


Apply fertilizers as needed to encourage moderate growth but avoid rates that cause excessive growth. It is especially critical to avoid over stimulating the growth of the grass in early spring and midsummer. Fertilize with 2:3:4 (30) The number (4) stands for the high potassium content which increases the plant's resistance to disease and promotes the plant's health and sturdiness. Alternate with 3:1:5 use 20 to 50 grams

per square m2. The exact proportions and amounts of fertilizers can only be determined host after soil tests are conducted. Be careful with the use of L.A.N (Limestone Ammonium Nitrate) or compost with high nitrogen content, such as mushroom compost, chicken manure, etc.


Apply KMnO4 (Potassium Permanganate) used as a fungicide. A purple-red crystalline salt, used as an oxidizing agent.


Dosage of use: 1 tea-spoon in 5-liter water over an area of 20 m2 lawn. Use a fine nozzle watering can or a high pressure spay can. The program is essential in March, April and May this can be suspended to September, when it should be repeated for approximately 2 months again, as required.


Alternate with CHLOROTHANIL a soft white-gray crystalline metallic element in a liquid form, used as a fungicide. It is obtained synthetically and is a byproduct and formulated by the oil industry. Spray particularly on the diseased or bare areas as the spores affects the soil as well as the grass. Dosage of use: 25 ml in 1-liter water and spot spray badly affected areas in the lawn.


Controlling the disease needs to be done immediately when there are signs of returning.

There are at this stage no guaranties of a permanent solution.


Create a better environment with PENAC "P" (Apply for our separate information sheet). PENAC "P" plant and soil catalyst, will stimulate the development of O2 (oxygen) generating microorganisms such as aerobic bacteria. PENAC comes in a form of a fine white mineral powder. It is chemically inert Dosage of use: 12 grams in 24-liter water will cover +/- 60 m2 area. It is relatively inexpensive. Positive results have been reported in horticulture and agriculture where all synthetic growth regulators, cosmetics, etc. are excluded.


A conversion process of developing a viable and sustainable agro-eco system over a period of time to organic agriculture is another option. If the farm or fields are not converted at once it should be done on a field-to-field basis, whereby full standards are followed from start to conversion on the relevant fields. The area of land being managed to the full standards will therefore progressively increase. It is recommended that a conversion plan is made and assessed periodically. Inspections must be made and updated when necessary.

22 Apr 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0

Watering lawns

If you want your lawn to look green, it will need water and fertilizer. If you only want your lawn to remain alive in a dry, brown, dormant state, you might be able to do that with 75% less water.

For most of us, saving water is the obvious, it is the cheapest but not the most beneficial thing you can do to our lawn. Watering is a very misunderstood factor in a lawn maintenance routine. The goal of irrigating your lawn is very simple: to replace the moisture that is lost due to evaporation. Any more or any less will cause the lawn to suffer in times of stress. Generally, given our weather patterns, it is not necessary to irrigate the lawn on a regular basis until the summer starts.

  • How much?

    The technique of determining how much to water your lawn is simple: Place a small rain gauge or dig a metal jam tin in the lawn (top edge level with the soil) when your sprinkler is running and see how many minutes it takes to fill the gauge to a level of 25mm. Then, over a period of days, see how long it takes for the 25mm of water to evaporate out of the gauge or tin. This will tell you when and how much to water. You may be surprised!

  • When?

    The time of day makes a difference. One basic rule: water your lawn when the least amount of water will be lost to evaporation. Watering early in the morning before the heat of the day will make sure your water goes down to the roots instead of going up in vapor. Avoid watering during the middle of the day when the heat is highest.

  • How often?

    Be sure to follow the "25 millimeter" guide described above. Frequent, but shallow, watering causes the grass to send roots up to the surface looking for water where they will suffer more during hot spells. Water longer in each spot. Also be sure to water more along paths and kerb-stones. These areas dry out faster due to more heat build up.

  • A word to irrigation sprinkler owners

    Become familiar with how your system operates! It is very important to "calibrate" your system so that your lawn is being watered correctly for each zone. Get to know your garden, not all watering zones need to be running the same length of time. Many irrigation systems have overlapping areas between flowerbeds and lawns. These systems are designed to save on the installation cost, less solenoid valves with allocated watering zones, a smaller computer water timer, less sprinklers, etc. Technically this is incorrect because flowerbeds and lawns don’t necessary need the same volume of water also the watering frequency need not be the same, designs like this often is wasting water and could promote plant and lawn diseases.

There is no hard and fast rule as to how much and how often your lawn needs water, there are too many factors playing a role in the watering process, such as the soil type for instance, sandy soils will require more frequent watering. A sunny garden may also need more watering, wind factors play an important role, especially coastal winds will cause a lot of moisture evaporation. In my experience most damage is done by cutting the lawn too short especially in mid summer. Newly planted lawns also need more frequent watering then established lawns. Certain lawns are more draught tolerant then others, but all lawns require enough water to look their best. I was asked years ago by an experience gardener, how much liquid I drank in a day, including coffee and tea, I could not answer the exact number of cups and glasses, I said; “it depends, if I am thirsty I will drink a lot of water and on another day little or non”, He said; “exactly, grass is a living entity, just treat it as such”

How much water a lawn needs can only be determined by the owner or the person in charge of the lawn. Follow the 25 mm guideline, try to be sensitive and when you have developed a feeling for what is too much or too little, watering is easy.

No need to be apprehensive, your lawn won’t die if you did not water it for a few days, just give it a little extra the next time you water. Remember sandy soils may need to be watered more frequently, clay and loamy soils will hold more moisture content and you will there for be able to space the days between one watering and another. What ever you do make sure you don’t cut your lawn too short.


22 Apr 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0


Clover has it origin in the south east of Europe / south west Asia Minor. Clover was once believed to be a curative for heart disease because of their heart-shaped leaves. Today medical labs extracts a chemical called “coumarin” from clover which is used as a blood thinner. White Clover White or Dutch clover (Trifolium repens) has three-part green, heart-shaped leaves with white crescents and pink or white flowers. It grows about 5 to 15 cm high. It is a perennial plant that tolerates poor and dry soils, but thrives with frequent watering especially is the soil gets water logged.


Clover has the ability to make use of atmospheric nitrogen and it therefore does not a need particular good soil to grow. It has a shallow root system and spreads by runners. It also grows from seed.


Until the 1950s, Clover was included in lawn seed mixes as it was regarded as a prestigious lawn plant. It was considered an attractive, low-maintenance ground cover that is soft to walk on, it mows well and it also has a mild pleasant smell and will fill in thin spots in a lawn. Clover is immune to "dog patches." The urine of female dogs discolors and browns lawn grasses. Clover remains as green and lush as ever, it needs no fertilizers. Clover stays green all summer with little or no watering in most regions of the SA. Clover is relatively drought-tolerant and it greens up early in spring and remains green until the first frost. In areas with winter rain it will remain green all winter.


White clover grows just 5 to 15 cm tall and requires little or no mowing to keep it orderly.

However, some homeowners may prefer to mow in mid-summer in order to deadhead old blooms and neaten the appearance of the lawn, or to prevent blooming.


Clover may also be considered a weed which does not readily withstand heavy foot traffic. Clover can become invasive in lawns. Its flowers attract bees. Children playing in a Clover lawn will end up with a few green stains on their bodies and clothing. Its flowers become unattractive when they turn brown. If you are a Clover lawn lover and you want Clover to look at its best it must be mowed frequently it will reduce the flowers and therefore eliminate the attraction of bees.

Whichever way you look at it, some are fore it and some against it. I was told by a bee keeper friend of mine that bees only sting when they feel they are threatened.


Red Clover The red clover (Trifolium pratense) tolerates acidic or poorly drained soil, and is commonly used as a forage crop for animals. It is unsuitable for lawns because it has coarse stems which look terrible when it is mowed.


White Clover Clover is best planted in spring and summer. If you wish to add clover to your lawn, power rake or otherwise scruff the soil surface to provide good soil to seed contact. Seed at a rate of 60 to 250 grams per 100 m2 this is depending on the amount of clover desired in the lawn. At 60 grams per 100 square meters clover will become the dominant plant.

Since clover seeds are small, uniform distribution may be difficult. Mix sawdust or river sand, with the seed prior to spreading to simplify distribution. Keep the soil moist until Clover has become established. Clover will not thrive under a program of heavy fertilization.


White clover is not reliably hardy in every parts of South Africa. Clover popularity fluctuates depending on the severity of the winter, summer drought, etc. If the clover is thin one year, it usually recovers in following years, so over-seeding is not always necessary.


22 Apr 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0



For those who don’t like clover in their lawn but want to maintain a natural approach to eliminate Clover in the Lawn this option is a bit limited. The most effective method of controlling clovers is to maintain a dense and healthy turf area. It also helps if the Ph and nutrients levels are at their optimum. The right mowing height and frequency of mowing will also help to deter these weeds.

Alternatively one can continue pulling the Clover out by hand which will work in small lawns.


If you can’t keep up with the work, the chemical control with a selective weed-killer is sometimes necessary especially when managing large areas.

To chemically control White Cover you must treat it with a Selective Herbicide broad leaf weedkiller it must contain either "mecoprop" or dicamba  benzoic acid".


1) Irrigate / soak the lawn well a minimum 2.5 to 3cm water.

2) Apply (phosphorous free) Nitogen fertilizer at the rate of 25 to 30 grams per m2 and water in for a minumum of one week till you

see the grass greening up.

3) Make sure you don't cut the lawn you want  the Clover to grow actively and have as much foliage visible as possible.

4) Select the product available at the nursery, there are a few on the market, Over the years I have always used a product called    TURFWEEDER and found it to be most succesfull.

5) Apply the product you have chosen and follow the instructions.

If you deceide to use TURFWEEDER: take a look at http://www.dowagro.com/PublishedLiterature/dh_015b/0901b8038015b141.pdf?filepath=/011-10197.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc.


The best is to spray in spring or autumn, when temperatures are expected to remain cool. Do not use it when temperatures are predicted to reach +/- 30 degrees Celsius within 24 hours. Usually you will notice after 10 day to 2 weeks wilting and yellowing will take place. In total it can take 6 to 8 weeks for the clover to disappears completely.

Using A selective broad-leaf weed killer such as Turfweeder may need to be re-applied after 6 to 8 weeks, to keep the Clover under control in your lawn.


If you decide to use chemicals, always read and follow the directions on label and keep pets and children away until the application is dried up.

Apply carefully! I recommend adding 5 to 10 ml of dishwashing liquid to a 5 liter Selective weed killer application mixture to help it better adhere to the clover's waxy type leaf. "Turfweeder" will reduce the clover but a 2nd or 3de application may be required to eliminate the clover for one year.

It is recommended to apply no more than a maximum of 3 successive spray applications once a year


Clover is invasive only when conditions exist that are unfavorable for grass growth, such as low soil fertility, compaction and poor soil aeration. Maintaining healthy grass keeps clover from spreading aggressively.

To improve your lawn, water the grass thoroughly every week to week and a half to encourage deep roots. Irrigation watering should be deep. Frequent light watering encourages clover, which is shallow-rooted. Mowing your lawn no shorter than 5 to 7 cm also encourages deeper grass roots.

Aerate/ core your lawns in early autumn to promote better drainage in heavy, compact soils. Have your soil tested to determine soil fertility and fertilize accordingly.

22 Apr 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0

Rosemary has been consumed for thousands of years.

It is used a lot in Italian dishes. It grows like a weed in the Mediterranean climates.


Researchers describe it as the perfect drug to protect brain cells from the ravages of free radicals The Brain is particularly vulnerable to oxidation damage because it has a high metabolic rate.


Rosemary is therefore good for your brain. How about that?


A collaborative group from the Burnham Institute for Medical Research (Burnham Institute) in La Jolla, CA and in Japan, report that the herb Rosemary contains an ingredient that fights off free radical damage in the brain.


The active ingredient in Rosemary, known as carnosic acid (CA), protects the brain from stroke and neuro-degeneration that is due to injurious chemical free radicals.

These radicals are thought to contribute not only to stroke and neurodegenerative conditions such as Alzheimer’s, but also to the ill effects of the normal aging on the brain.


Why is Rosemary a “perfect” drug?


It seems that the carnosic acid is activated by the free radical damage itself. So the carnosic acid is only used when it’s actually needed. Technically this is a “pathological-activated therapeutic” which basically activates our body’s own defense system.


Like with everything else too much of a good thing does not make it better, consuming too much Rosemary elevates the blood pressure therefore when you cook with Rosemary use it in moderation. People with high blood pressure problems should avoid it all togeter.


If you want more details, read this article in Science Daily. http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/10/071030102210.htm

21 Apr 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0

A landscaper is someone who has the ability to manipulate an area of land, which is usually a plot or garden to make it to look a certain way one may envisage and desire.


This profession does not relies mainly on the gardening part which involves, shrubs, plants, trees and laying of lawns, but also involves the construction and installation of walls, buildings, retaining walls, flower boxes and planters, pools, gazebo's, trellises, instalation of irrigation systems, night and spot lighting and many other features.


A landscaper requires the knowledge and the skilled consideration of an area as a whole. There are a variety of reasons to practice landscaping, ranging from a desire to make an area look attractive, to make an area practical as well as functional for recreational purposes. A good landscaper has the knowledge of and understands the elements of nature and construction and blends them accordingly.


Landscaping a profession is both a science and art, it takes a good eye to appreciate the existing features of the natural environment and he thinks about how to best manipulate them. For that he requires good observation and designing skills allowing the landscape to flows seamlessly with the natural environment, rather than fighting it.


A qualified landscaper must knows how to read and design a landscape or garden lay out plan, the advantage is that the landscaper is usually hands on in a project.


Where as a landscape architect as a rule only design the plans and involves hem self only in large scale projects such as large wine estates and government institutions, etc, even then they recommend or outsource their work to a qualified landscaper who has the advantage of the practical experiences.


21 Apr 2012 Written by Peter Vink Comments 0

The botanical name for Pansie is "Viola”


The little plants are some of the hardiest to be found in the garden. In climates that don’t have the extreme heat and cold these delicate looking flowers can be found most of the year round.


Pansies come in a dizzying array of colors. The face of a pansy is the black patches that can be somewhat circular or look like they were hand painted with streaks. Some newer varieties on the market have faces that are other colors such as blue or burgundy instead of the traditional black. The colors range from delicate whites, creams, and pinks to bold yellows, oranges and reds. There are dramatic blacks and burgundies as well as soothing blues and purples. The varieties that are termed “clear” are the ones where the “face” in absent.


Because of the wide color range, choosing a variety is the hardest part of growing pansies. The plants require very little care and preparation to be a spectacular addition to your garden or patio container. They are also delightful in window boxes to add some charm. When shopping for the plants themselves choose plants that are short and compact not necessary having a lot of flowers. The leaves should be a dark green. If the plants are tall and leggy and show yellowing bottom leafs they should be avoided. Remember by choosing the more bushy plants with fewer blooming flowers, you have chosen a plant that will grace your garden with a longer bloom time.


Pansies prefer at least a half day of sun, preferably more. They also enjoy a moist but not soggy soil. The plants should be spaced about 15cm or 6 inches apart to achieve the lush look, when the pansies are planted close enough together without overcrowding them, you will get the result of a colorful carpet like display, not easy to forget. An all purpose fertilizer such as 2:3:2 can be added when they are planted. The plants must be watered in thoroughly.


The final step is to add about 5cm or 2 inches of mulching compost to hold in moisture. I don’t like the use pine bark because it tends to makes the soil too acid. Regular watering, removing spent flowers and pinching the plants back if they get overgrown is all that is required. With these tips you will have the prettiest pansies on the block. And that’s it.


Did you know?

That in Afrikaans the Viola’s is called “gesiggies” which means; “little faces”.

In Spanish the flower is called “pensamiento” which means; “thoughts

The English name “pansy” is a derivative from the French word “pensee” which means;”a thought”.


Don’t put off until tomorrow what you can do today, there is a lot to do.


Give it a "thought" plant pansies.